Surfing!!!

Surfing is a water sport in which the participant is carried along the face of a breaking wave, using a surfboard , although wave-riders may make use of kneeboards, body boards, kayaks, surf skis and their own bodies.

Two major subdivisions within contemporary stand-up surfing are reflected by the differences in surfboard design and riding style of longboarding and shortboarding.

Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. The chief was the most skilled wave rider in the community with the best board made from the best tree. The ruling class had the best beaches and the best boards, and the commoners were not allowed on the same beaches, but they could gain prestige by their ability to ride the surf on their extremely heavy boards.

The art of surfing was first observed by Europeans in 1767, by the crewmembers of the Dolphin at Tahiti. Later, Lieutenant James King, wrote about the art when completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cook's death in 1779.

Local wind conditions affect wave quality, since the ridable surface of a wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal surf conditions include a light to moderate strength "offshore" wind, since this blows into the front of the wave making it barrel or tube.

Wave intensity classification

The geometry of tube shape can be represented as a ratio between length and width. A perfectly cylindrical vortex has a ratio of 1:1, while the classic almond-shaped tube is nearer 3:1. When width exceeds length, the tube is described as "square".

The sport of surfing has become so popular that it now represents a multi-billion dollar industry specially in clothing and fashion markets. Some people make a career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships, competing in contests, or marketing and selling surf-related products, such as equipment and clothing.
This rise in popularity has also led to the creation of surf schools and camps, where lessons are taught to novice or beginner surfers. Surfers' skills are tested not only in their ability to control their board in challenging conditions and or catch and ride challenging waves, but also by their ability to execute various maneuvers such as turning and carving.

eQUipMent













Equipment used in surfing includes a leash, surf wax, traction pads which can either be permanently attached or interchangeable. In warmer climates swimsuits, surf trunks or board shorts are worn, and occasionally rash guards; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures.


Various types of sealife can cause injuries and even fatalities. Depending on the location of the surfing activity, animals such as sharks, stingrays and jellyfish may be a danger to surfers.